Builder gel or gel polish: which manicure is right for you?

It’s the question I’m asked most when someone books their first nail appointment: “Should I have builder gel or just gel?” Once they’re finished, the two can look almost the same. The difference is in what’s underneath, and that decides which one suits you.

What gel polish does

Gel polish is a thin, flexible colour that sets hard under a lamp. It goes on much like ordinary polish, but it doesn’t chip in a day or two and it stays glossy. It doesn’t add any strength to the nail, though. If your own nails are already fairly strong and you just want colour that lasts, a gel manicure is usually all you need.

What builder gel does

Builder gel is thicker. I build it up over your natural nail to make a light, strong layer, a bit like a protective shell. That extra structure is what helps nails that bend, peel or snap, and it lets you grow a little length without it breaking off. On top of the builder gel you can have any colour, a French tip or nail art.

Builder gel tends to suit you if:

• your nails are thin, soft or keep splitting at the edges;
• you’re trying to grow your nails and they always break before they get there;
• you’re hard on your hands, at work or at home;
• you want a slightly longer, more shaped look on your own nails.

Gel polish tends to suit you if:

• your nails are healthy and don’t break easily;
• you like to change your look often;
• you want a tidy, glossy finish for a holiday or a special occasion.

Keeping it looking good

With builder gel, your nails grow out underneath, so after about two weeks you’ll see a gap at the cuticle. That’s when I recommend an infill: I file back the old gel, balance the nail and fill in the regrowth, so you’re not starting from scratch each time. One thing to know before you book: I only infill builder gel I’ve put on myself. If you’re coming from another salon, please come with your natural nails and we’ll start fresh with a new set.

Whichever you choose, a little cuticle oil every evening makes a real difference. It keeps the skin around the nail soft and helps the product stay put. And please don’t pick or peel it off when you’re ready for a change. It takes layers of your own nail with it, and that’s how nails end up thin in the first place. Book a removal or a fresh set instead.

Still not sure?

You don’t need to decide before you arrive. Book the treatment you think is closest and we’ll look at your nails together at the start of the appointment. If the other option would suit you better, I’ll tell you, and why.

You can see the full list of nail treatments, with times and prices, on the treatments page.